Author Topic: Mechanic's Thread  (Read 5584 times)

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jwible

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2011, 01:37:00 PM »
Can I run the same crank on different types of BBs provided the BB itself is the same model?

For example, my converted TT bike has an Italian BB.  My Quarq is on a Storck with an English BB.  If I put an Italian threaded Dura Ace on the TT bike can I swap my Quarq over or is there an issue with the spindle length between the two types of BBs?

Offline <gmt>

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2011, 01:45:31 PM »
beyond my experience.


here's what I would do:


1. remove BB from Storck and TT
2. measure shell width for both with dial caliper
3. if same, then buy DA bottom bracket in italian threading and win.
4. if not same.... uhhhh


logic being that Shimano does not manufacture two different cranks for Italian/English.

o-meter

jwible

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2011, 01:48:54 PM »

logic being that Shimano does not manufacture two different cranks for Italian/English.

That's my thought as well.

I could just spend the cash on a 105 BB for the TT bike and see what happens.

shovelhd

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2011, 01:59:28 PM »
As long as it's the same type of BB (Octalink, ISIS, taper, whatever), the threading shouldn't matter. The concern would be the spindle length and chainstay clearance. FWIW. I have no direct experience.

coasting

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2011, 02:38:50 PM »
My steel bike that I converted to SS has the traditional quill stem with threaded fork. I have never ever been able to tighten the locknut on the headset without it coming loose and needing another tightening which is not that convenient when the headset wrench is needed.

Anyone else have this problem? Is it just a weakness of the threaded headset design or have I got a dud. It has been like this since new back in 1995.

Offline <gmt>

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2011, 02:45:20 PM »
My steel bike that I converted to SS has the traditional quill stem with threaded fork. I have never ever been able to tighten the locknut on the headset without it coming loose and needing another tightening which is not that convenient when the headset wrench is needed.

Anyone else have this problem? Is it just a weakness of the threaded headset design or have I got a dud. It has been like this since new back in 1995.


are you using two wrenches?  I do mine with a headset wrench and a gigantic crescent wrench.  It tends to hold for many months now.
o-meter

shovelhd

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2011, 03:09:10 PM »
My steel bike that I converted to SS has the traditional quill stem with threaded fork. I have never ever been able to tighten the locknut on the headset without it coming loose and needing another tightening which is not that convenient when the headset wrench is needed.

Anyone else have this problem? Is it just a weakness of the threaded headset design or have I got a dud. It has been like this since new back in 1995.

What is between the locknut and the top race? There must be a spacer or other fitting (brake stop, etc.) or it won't stay tight.

coasting

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2011, 03:15:38 PM »

are you using two wrenches?  I do mine with a headset wrench and a gigantic crescent wrench.  It tends to hold for many months now.

Yes I am. i put the headset wrench on the thin race and then put the big crescent wrench on the locknut and turn that one, keeping the headset wrench still.

coasting

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2011, 03:16:51 PM »
What is between the locknut and the top race? There must be a spacer or other fitting (brake stop, etc.) or it won't stay tight.

there is a reflector.

shovelhd

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2011, 03:22:25 PM »
there is a reflector.

That's pretty common. Have you tried removing the stem from the steerer and tightening the headset?

coasting

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #11 on: January 14, 2011, 03:45:23 PM »
That's pretty common. Have you tried removing the stem from the steerer and tightening the headset?

No I haven't. Does that sometimes make a difference?

I had tried removing the reflector but that didn't help. It seemed like the reflector's attachment was an integral part of the stack and without it, it loosened more quickly. I'll try removing the stem.

Thanks

shovelhd

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #12 on: January 14, 2011, 09:30:20 PM »
If you remove the reflector boss, you'll need to replace it with a keyed spacer. While you have the locknut off, clean the steerer tube threads thoroughly with solvent to remove any grease.

Offline MidgetMaestro

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2011, 01:26:45 PM »
It's a work in progress, but we'll get it up eventually!  ;)

carpediemracing

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Re: Mechanic's Thread
« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2011, 11:56:44 AM »
It's nice to see that Park changed some stuff on the bar tape page. There are still some embarrassing pictures of a totally wrong hood on a lever (Dia Compe hood on old Campy lever).

My take on the topic (and I emailed Park to have them make their post better - they replied that it's just a Cat 3's bike. Like that means they can be as unprofessional as they want?):
http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2007/11/how-to-handlebar-tape.html

There's the tape factor too. If the tape doesn't cooperate well then you're not going to have a good tape job. For me, old school as I am, the non-adhesive tape doesn't work. I seem to rely on adhesive backing.

My favorite tape is Cinelli. I'm using Bontrager (regular). The Bontrager carbon is not good, at least for more than a couple weeks.

cdr